Fast Fashion Clothing Contradicts International Women’s Day Values

The garment factory inside the Rana Plaza building, which collapsed in 2013, supplied Walmart, among other brands. Walmart did not sign the Transition Accord on Fire and Building Safety in Bangladesh in 2018. (Jacob Moore/STU Journalism)

Reitman’s has a seasonal sale with pastel colours reminiscent of spring. Fast fashion does not only refer to the use of sweat shops or poor working conditions. Fast fashion also includes some planned obsolescence, which can occur from the seasonal rotation of clothing. (Jacob Moore/STU Journalism)

Like Reitman’s, Joe Fresh has low-priced seasonal items in spring colours. (Jacob Moore/STU Journalism)

After the Rana Plaza building collapse in 2013, killing over 1000 people, Joe Fresh signed the Accord on Fire and Building Safety in Bangladesh. They still produce clothes in Bangladesh. (Jacob Moore/STU Journalism)

Prices for these American Eagle jeans range from $54.99 to $89.99. American Eagle is one of the companies that signed the Accord on Fire and Building Safety in Bangladesh. (Jacob Moore/STU Journalism)

American Eagle’s advertising is seasonal, highlighting water, beaches, and the summer, but according to the advertisement, their jeans can always be worn. (Jacob Moore/STU Journalism)

At Pseudio in the Regent Mall, these Levi’s go for $118.00. This tag says they are “responsibly made.” Another tag on the inseam says and “Care for our planet: wash less, wash cold, line dry, donate or recycle.” (Jacob Moore/STU Journalism)

Value Village’s jeans are cheaper than a new pair, but brand names are not as common as in vintage stores like Bellwether. (Jacob Moore/STU Journalism)

Bellwether is a vintage, consignment clothing store located at 384 Queen Street, Fredericton. (Jacob Moore/STU Journalism)

Stores like Bellwether may have more secondhand, trendy, and vintage brand names like Levi’s, but they are more expensive than Value Village. The jeans in front cost $44, and the pair behind are $59. (Jacob Moore/STU Journalism)

A wide variety of name brand running shoes are available at Sport Check for a high price compared to the cost of shoes from Value Village. (Jacob Moore/STU Journalism)

All of the men’s sneakers at Value Village are on this half of the shelf. As Walter suggests, thrift stores like Value Village are cheaper, but specific things, like shoes, are hard to find. (Jacob Moore/STU Journalism)

For International Women’s Day on March 8^th, people took to social media to celebrate the accomplishments of women from around the world. Amid the celebration, International Women’s Day highlights the continuous need to challenge gender biases and gender inequality. Fast fashion companies joined in on the topic, making women’s clothes with slogans related to the holiday. However, some of these companies, like Boohoo, have been accused of mistreating their workforce. Manvi Walter is president of the Asian Students Association at St. Thomas University, and she thinks companies like Boohoo need to understand the history of the subject before celebrating International Women’s Day.

“As much as Women’s Day is empowering, it is also a sensitive topic because there is a history behind it. Anyone that has read about it, they know that women have struggled. You need to know the struggles behind it before you celebrate it,” said Walter.

Recently, Boohoo’s subsidiary company Pretty Little Thing released clothing with logos that said “Empowered” and “Girls Supporting Girls”. In July of 2020, the Sunday Times did an investigation of one of Boohoo’s clothing suppliers in Leicester, England that revealed workers were being paid less than minimum wage. Following the Sunday Times article, the NCA launched an investigation to determine if the supplier was using modern slavery.

“The example of Pretty Little Thing, they were making people work in bad conditions. I don’t really condone certain things, and that is one of them,” said Walter.

Before coming to STU, Walter didn’t know much about fast fashion. “Fast fashion” refers to a business strategy where clothes are produced at the lowest possible cost, sometimes involving sweatshops. The clothes are cheap and of lower quality, so they are purchased more frequently. They are also produced quickly in response to new fashion trends. Because of the ever-changing tastes of consumers, clothes are typically made with some planned obsolescence.

Walter only learned recently about the collapse of the Rana Plaza building in the Dhaka District of Bangladesh in 2013. More than a thousand people died, sparking a massive debate about the ethics of fast fashion. The building contained multiple garment factories that supplied brands like Gucci, Joe Fresh, and Walmart.

“Of course, there is a way to stop fast fashion in which people are practicing malpractices,” said Walter.

Although Walter thinks fast fashion is wrong, she believes banning it immediately is an extreme that could have serious repercussions.

“There should be a gradual stop to it. I feel like local shops, thrift shops, and really any other means of shopping should be given more recognition.”

Because she is from India, Walter is used to shopping locally for clothes, and she tries to thrift when she can. Sometimes, choosing where and how to shop comes down to personal preference, someone’s income, and that fact that thrift stores don’t always have what people need.

“I’ve been around Fredericton, and a lot of thrift stores are kind of expensive, and a lot of fast fashion is more affordable. If I buy it every once in a while, it doesn’t mean I’m supporting it,” explained Walter.

To help people decide how to shop for their clothes, Walter suggested that companies be more transparent. On their websites, there could be a page describing how clothes are manufactured.

“I feel like brands should provide such information, like how their products are made, even in their branding or marketing—in everything—so people are more aware of what they’re buying, what they’re wearing, what they’re paying for,” said Walter.

Following the Rana Plaza building collapse in 2013, the Accord on Fire and Building Safety in Bangladesh was created.

“The Accord on Fire and Building Safety in Bangladesh helps ensure that no worker needs to fear fire, building collapses or other accidents that can be prevented with reasonable health and safety measures,” stated the Accord’s website.

It was a five-year agreement, which over 220 companies signed. In 2018, the Transition Accord was created to maintain the progress of the original. Over 190 companies signed the Transition Accord on Fire and Safety in Bangladesh. Loblaw Companies Limited, of which Joe Fresh is a subsidiary, signed.

Boohoo recently released their Modern Slavery Statement for February 2021. The report explains how the company hired an independent investigator following the Sunday Times’ modern slavery accusations in their Leicester supplier.

“The report identified many failings in the Leicester supply chain. It concluded that the business had taken steps nearly a year previously; however it was clear that these didn’t advance quickly enough. There were clear recommendations focused on improving corporate governance, compliance and monitoring processes,” the statement read.

Some of Pretty Little Thing’s International Women’s Day clothing collection is still available on their website.

“I know what they’re trying to portray [with the clothing]. Sometimes it is for a good intention, but unless you know the meaning behind a certain topic, you shouldn’t capitalize on it to help broaden your business. That’s not what the topic is,” said Walter.